Showing posts with label UNESCO World Heritage Site. Show all posts
Showing posts with label UNESCO World Heritage Site. Show all posts

Sunday, December 16, 2012

Pattadakal Papanatha Temple – Bagalkot Heritage Drive - Day 2


Bagalkot Heritage Drive - Day 2 – Pattadakal Papanatha Temple

Papanatha temple view from behind

After Virupaksha temple we just felt as if it was the last in the Pattadakal temple complex, as the guide went after this taking his fee of Rs200. But I wasn't filled my mind so wanted to explore more, none of them from my group of eight joined me so I went alone to explore beyond the Nandi mandapa in front of the Virupaksha temple, as there is Mallaprabha River flowing just after the temple. Went down to see the river & was not much impressed to see the river being in bad condition as any other river in India, people washing cloths & bathing. So didn't feel like to go down the steps to the water, so straight away went on the other side of the banks of the river & was surprised to see a lawn after the compound wall of the Pattadakal temple complex, & decided to see what it is & stopped right away to see a small road in-between the two compound walls & sewage water left flowing on the road making it no tourists visiting the other side, but I just didn't bother to wait & followed the path & seen the board saying Papanatha Temple, & as I walked further the temple was visible & was pretty much surprised to see such a big temple being isolated from the Pattadakal temple complex.

Mallaprabha river infront of the temple almost dry
Route stone
No wonder why this temple is not visited by any of the tourists & felt bad when even the tourist guide didn't say anything about such a beautiful temple. This was 2nd best temple for me in Pattadakal after Virupaksha temple. Felt bad to see how the villagers have spoiled the surroundings from sewage water & all the dirt from their houses. Leaving behind all these I went to see all around the temple to see such beautiful sculptures on the walls of the temple. There was a watchman kept for this temple alone may be the reason being it might be damaged for being isolated from the main temple complex. I spent almost 20mins here alone & even till I left the place I didn't see any other tourist coming to this place, reason being boards not put properly for the route. Most of them end their Pattadakal journey at Virupaksha temple Nandi mandapa.
Front view of Papanatha temple
 Coming back to the temple structure, Papanatha Temple is dedicated to Mukteswara constructed in 740 A.D. Initially, the construction was started with Nagara style, but later it was switched to Dravidian style. This combination of south & north Indian characters, namely Dravidian & Nagara, some scholars refer to as Vesara. The Shikhara belongs to the Rekha-Nagara type while the other characters like shala, kuta & hara belong to the Dravidian type. The sculptors who designed Virupaksha temple also designed Papanatha temple, namely Sarvasiddhi Achari, Beladeva & Changamma.
Beautiful artwork on the walls of the temple
The wall surfaces are relieved with niches (devakoshthas) housing Saiva & Vaishnava deities & depicting episodes from the Ramayana.

Pillars of the entrance porch bear Kinnara couples & engaged columns have the figures of Dvarapalas. Lions & sardulas are carved at the corners above the entablature & the ceiling panel depicts dancing Siva with Parvati & musicians & flying figures.
Shiva & Parvati dancing. Their feet are crossed in 'Swastika' posture
Lions carved at the corners of the ceiling
I then tried to see from the small entrance door & thought there is nothing much to see inside as it was totally dark & stinking inside, when the watchman said me to remove my slippers before entering inside & I had a second thought by then when I finally decided to explore what was inside, as I had traveled all the way 300m from the main Pattadakal temple complex so I entered inside to see total darkness & not much impressed till I seen some intricate carvings on the ceiling & just tried to capture photos but failed to see anything in the pictures then had to click with flash & suddenly the bat’s started flying away & was a bit panicky that time but after seeing the picture in the camera. I tried all my best to use some long exposure photos to capture the amazing art work on the whole of the ceiling, some of the best I've seen, & I was totally felt worth for exploring this, by the time I realized that it was too late since I left my group at the main temple complex I started running back to the parking lot as it was already late, so couldn't do much exploration on the pillars & inside the temple, called up my group & we started towards Banashankari temple as it was already 2.30pm & thought the temple might close.
Sculptures on the ceiling
Most beautiful Sculptures on the ceiling


Some information about the inside of the temple, Pillars & pilasters of the other mandapa's are relieved with medium-sized graceful sculptures of damsels & couples (mithunas) in playful moods. The central bay ceiling of the sabha-mandapa is adorned with panels depicting Anantasayana surrounded by the Dikpalas, nagaraja & Gajalakshmi from east to west. Here figures of rearing lions are cared projecting from above the entablature. Central ceiling of the ardha-mandapa has relief sculpture of dancing Siva in the company of Parvati & musicians. The western ceiling here has figure of Nagaraja. Both the mandapa's & the sanctum have ornate doorframes.


Bagalkot Heritage Drive - Day 2 – Shri Badami Banashankari Temple...to be continued…


Pattadakal Virupaksha Temple – Bagalkot Heritage Drive - Day 2


Bagalkot Heritage Drive - Day 2 – Pattadakal Virupaksha Temple

We then went to Lokeshwar/Virupaksha Temple which is the most magnificent temple of the Chalukyan style built by Lokamahadevi, the Queen of Vikramaditya II in 740 A.D. in commemoration of his victory over the Pallavas of Kanchi. The architects of Pallava country built this temple; Anivarita Gunda was the chief architect. In fact this temple is believed to have been a model for the Kailasa temple at Ellora.
The temple is quite big with an area of 224ft & 105ft in length & breadth respectively. The temple consists of a garbhagriha, pradakshinapatha, mahamandapa, mukhamandapa & separate Nandi mandapa in front of the temple. The garbhagriha has a Dravidian type Shikhara of three tiers. The square garbhagriha has a highly polished Sivalinga on a square panipitha.

Virupaksha Temple
The most important part of the temple is the 18 pillars in 4 rows at the spacious mukhamandapa. They contain fine sculptures of Ramayana, Mahabharata & Bhagavata purana. There are also pictures depicting the Illusions. Poses of couples on pillars & the Series of amorous couples in various intimate poses. 
Mukhamandapa inside Virupaksha temple
Poses of couples on either side of the entrance
At the main entrance of the Virupaksha temple from the eastern porch, the inner ceiling with huge image of Surya, the god of the sun, is driven in his chariot across the heavens in this panel from the ceiling of the temple. This rather symmetric composition includes a radiant crown for the god; makaras disgorging smaller figures at his shoulders; Aruna ("Dawn"), his legless charioteer, at the bottom of the panel, holding the reins of seven horses representing the days of the week; a plethora of other divinities; & scalloped clouds (the usual convention) on either side. The archers standing by Surya's legs personify the light of Dawn, whose arrow-like rays dispell the darkness at the break of day.
Surya deva, driven in his chariot holding the rein of 7 horses
This temple is considered as one of the most important for Hindu scholars & Ancient Indian history. Also found here are the halegannada (Old Kannada) inscriptions
Halegannada Inscriptions
You can spend some meaningful time trying to unlock the stories of the sculptures on the pillars, each of the 18 pillars here have a different story to tell.
There are Guardian on both sides of the entrance, this nonchalant guardian's oversize club, as a martial art & form of exercise(shown left in the below pic). As an attribute, the club can belong to Shiva or Vishnu. Since the guardian holds aloft a snake in his right rear hand, his affiliation is undoubtedly to Shiva. Here is another guardian, with a different kind of club, in a somewhat relaxed if not quite so casual pose as his brother in the previous photo(shown right in the below pic).

Guardian on both sides
Also found here is Vishnu Trivikrama takes an acrobatic step across the universe. The temple, although dedicated to Shiva, also includes Vaishnava images such as this one. Harihara, with a trident-bearing gana on his right & Lakshmi(?) on his left. His left upper hand holds a conch. His right upper hand holds a worn attribute which looks suspiciously like a chakra, although this would not be correct for the "Shiva half" of Harihara. Shiva Ardhanarishvara is half-man & half-woman, here accompanied by a gana who seems astonished by the transformation. Also found are the sculptures of Narasimha, Durga Mahishasuramardini , Ravana lifting kailasa, Shankha Nidhi & Padmanidhi.
Scene from Ramayana and inscriptions in Kannada below that describing as Rama, Lakshmana & sita
Scene from the Mahabharata: Detailed scenes from the epics (Mahabharata & Ramayana) are carved on the pillars. The central band here may depict Bhishma lying on the bed of arrows (from the Mahabharata). During the fight his body was pierced with so many arrows that they supported him above the ground when he fell.
Scenes from Ramayana & Mahabharata
A decorated ventilator, thats supposed to be a single rope fashioned into a grill

monuments on the walls

Illusion 1 : all 3 dancers here share the leg and hand of one another when tried to cover the other two with ur hand you can see one full structure of a dancer

Illusion 2 : two different animals sharing the same face, on the right is elephant and on the left probably a horse or a bull.
There is a Nandi mandapa in front of the Virupaksha temple, which has a fine large stone bull which face the temple. The pillars here shows some sort of ornamental structures on it making it look more beautiful.
Nandi Mandapa
Nandi statue inside Nandi mandapa
Ornamental structures inside the Nandi mandapa



Bagalkot Heritage Drive - Day 2 – Pattadakal Papanatha Temple…to be continued…